This time we are showing and introducing the working principle of automatic belt. Automatic belt is very easy and handy to use because of ratchet mechanism. Ratchet mechanism enables to tighten belt easily and belt will be safely secured to your size. Opening of belt is also very easy to do, thanks to quick release lock.

Working principle of automatic belt is shown in following photos. Working principle is easy to understand, but we will still explain it here. The main features of automatic belt is its tooth rack and pawl mechanism. Tooth rack is located in inner side of belt. Pawl mechanism is located in buckle. Pawl is spring operated and its task is lock pawl to tooth rack so belt will not open by itself. Pawl mechanism can be seen in second photo. Pawl mechanism is installed by pin to buckle frame. Third photo shows how pawl is locked to tooth. Pawl is marked by red circle. Tooth shape enables that you can tight belt by pushing belt (tighten direction) through buckle , but pawl will not allow belt open without open locking mechanism. Locking mechanism can be easily open by turning locking lever show in fourth photo. Lever is marked by blue circle.

That´s it. Now you know how automatic belt works! 

Here is quick explanation how you can easily shorten your automatic belt for your size. It would be best when you are using belt that buckle would go approximately in the middle of tooth rack when measuring your waist. First put belt to your waist and check correct cutting place of belt. After this you can remove belt part from buckle by opening lever shown in fifth photo. Then cut belt from measured place and install belt back to buckle.

Tooth rack of automatic belt
Buckle of automatic belt
Automatic belt working principle
Opening lever of automatic belt
Buckle removed

Check this video so it will clarify the operation of automatic belt for you.


This time we are introducing five the most common vintage watch brands in Finland. There is not much information about Finnish watch brand in English. These brands are mainly sold in 60-70´s in Finland and in some cases in Sweden also. We are introducing five the most common vintage watch brand in this article. These brands are Leijona, Cardinal, Milljonär, Leopard and Tiger.

Watches in this post are from my private collection. Photo quality is not the best because these photos has taken a long time ago, before posting. Copyrights remains to the owner. 

Leijona:

Definitely number one of Finnish watch brand is Leijona. Leijona has established in 1907 and trademark is still working. Leijona is the most known, most popular and most used Finnish watch brand. Leijona watches has always designed in Finland. Leijona watches has designed for everyday use and you can wear watches in every situation.

Small story of Leijona´s history. The J.W. Lindroos watch wholesaler in Tampere (Finland), started to sell Leijona watches in 1910. 1918 brothers Jalo, Urho ja Oiva Perkko established Perkko Corporation in Helsinki. Perkko bought J.W. Lindroos company in 1919. In the beginning of Leijona history watches were manufactured in Switzerland and most of the watches were pocket watches. In 1920´s it started to come more and more wristwatches to markets for men and women. Even before 2nd world war they were wide range of mechanical wristwatches, pocketwatches and wall clocks. After war there became more selection with waterproof watches and other stainless steel and silver watches.

1970´s quartz watches replace mechanical watches in markets. In this stage Leijona quartz watches was manufactured in Japan. Nowdays Leijona watch collection consist of about 350 different types of wrist- and pocketwatches for men, women and children. There has been high level quality control since beginning and all watches has to fulfill hard requirements conserning of materials and production.

Cardinal: Cardinal was the brand of Kellotuomi co. ,the Finnish wholesaler, which built Cardinal on the example of Leijona brand. Cardinal came to the market on a trajectory, in the late 60´s when the production of cheap watches came to the transit stage. That is why there are much less Cardinal watches in the world if compared to Leijona. Mechanical watches did not sell in the 70´s, then at the end of the decade came the transition to quartz watches, first to the Swiss ones and early 80´s to Japanese Miyota movements. When Kellotuomi co. stopped operating -92, Exact Oy continued as a trademark holder. In the 80´s Cardinal had about 15% share of watch markets in Finland. Few years Cardinal was most sold watch in Finland.

Cardinal watches

Milljonär:

Milljonär watches were sold in postal sales between 1950s and 1970s. Probably watches were sold also in some retail stores. Tähti-Tuonti co in Helsinki started mail order business in 1958 and in the end of 60´s company started to advertise Milljonär watches in different magazines. Also the company called Swiss-kellot sold Milljonär watches in 1977 through mail order sales. According to the advertisements, the watches had AS, FHF, ETA and UT movements. Milljonär brand is probably a Finnish / Swedish marketing name, which is likely to be marketed only in the Nordic countries.

Milljonär Scandinavic

Leopard:

The brand was Sylvester Korhonen co. own brand in Finland. It was the largest players in the watch industry in Finland at the end of the 60´s. The brand may have been born in the early 50’s. Sylvester Korhonen’s wholesale went bankruptcy in the 70’s because of the quartz crisis, partly also by generation change problems. Sylvester continued its operations as a watch shop in Espoo, after a generation change.

Leopard watches have been assembled with the brand name in watchmaking companies in Switzerland. The operating model was very similar to Leijona brand. The Leopard brand went down with the Sylvester Korhonen wholesale company.

Tiger:

Tiger was a trademark of Aseman Kello co located in Helsinki. Tiger followed Leijona brand footsteps. According to the available information, watches were mainly manufactured by the Swiss watchmaker Mildia SA. The oldest Tiger watches from 60´s had FHF and ST handwinding movements or AS and ETA automatic movements. Tiger is much less sold than the other mentioned watch brands in Finland because it was sold only at watch shops of Asema Kello in Helsinki and Tampere and also in watch shop chain of Velikulta.

Check also other posts in our blog: https://www.timemachine.fi/en/blog

If you are intrested about watches and need something for yourself, check our onlinestore were we are selling nice collection of watches, watch accessories and other fashion products: www.timemachine.fi/en

Cheers,

Timemachine.fi

🙂


Mechanical watches and clocks have amazed people for centuries and now it is possibility almost every on build one. Timemachine.fi is now introducing very intresting project for watchmakers, watch hobbyists, engineers or people who just like to have fun with 3D-printer. 

Timemachine.fi introduces this amazing 3D-printed tourbillon which is fully functional. Creator of this masterpiece is Swiss engineer Christoph Laimer. Christoph is not a watchmaker. He has studied electrical engineering and working for 18 years for example in computer science inqustry.

“The Laimer Tourbillon is an innovative design with the heart beating highly visible in the core. The key function to indicate the time is direct and straight. Balance, escape wheel, tourbillon cage, hands, and barrel are all arranged co-axial. Gears for the transmission from the barrel, and the reduction from seconds to minutes and hours are placed behind the tourbillon in order to keep the design circular.

All parts are 3d-printed except a few screws and pins. The concept also includes a 3d-printed mainspring even though it is irrational (plastic is not elastic – it slowly flows and deforms). In order to make it 3d-printable, a lot of engineering effort was invested. The complete movement was essentially re-invented. The resulting timepiece works surprisingly well – of course, with it’s runtime and accuracy, it can’t compete with a conventional watch.The entire 3d-model is published and downloadable on Thingiverse. Many thanks to Nicholas Manousos for his great article in Hodinkee explaining the importance of my project from a traditional watchmakers perspective. Seeing his 3d-printed Tourbillon 1000% in action was very motivating to finish my work.” says homepage of Christoph Laimer.

The best part of this project really is that all 3D-models are downloadable in Thingiverse so all other persons can try to print and assemble very own 3D-tourbillon: 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1249221

Check more details from this unique project from the inventor´s homepage where is also other intresting 3D-projects: http://www.laimer.ch/  and also Hodinkee website: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-major-step-forward-in-horological-additive-manufacturing-christoph-laimers-3d-printed-tourbillon

There is another amazing 3D-project finished and project is 3D-printed triple-axis tourbillon by Adam Wrigley. Triple-axis tourbillon are probably one of the complicated subassembly to manufacture in watchmaking, because it needs hundreds of hours hand- and finishing work. Only few watchmaking companies are able to manufacture one. This one is also fully working and it has designed mechanical engineer Adam Wrigley at Frog design. Man himself is a mechinal watch fanatic. The final design consists of 99 parts: 34 printed parts, eight ball bearings, three metal shafts, two barbell plates, one meter of fishing line, and 51 screws. Read more about project from http://wornandwound.com/clockwerk-3d-printed-triple-axis-tourbillon-adam-wrigley/

If you are intrested to make your own, download all 3D-files of triple-axis tourbillon from Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1624844

If you have 3D-printer and you are willing to print your own tourbillon, you must have patient and time to print all parts. It can take up to 2-3 hours to print one part. Timemachine.fi encourage everyone to build own tourbillon! Go for it! Have a nice 3D-printing!

Copyrights of photos belongs to their original owners.